If you’re wondering why is my geranium dying, could you be confused, like many, about what a geranium is? Is it a geranium or a pelargonium? In this article, I will answer this question and explain how to manage and treat common problems and how to revive your dying geranium pelargoniums.
Why Are My Geranium Pelargoniums Dying? 5 Factors To Consider
Geranium pelargoniums are highly valued for their vibrant blooms and easy-to-grow nature. They rely entirely on you to provide an ideal growing environment when grown in pots or containers. So, if they show signs of distress, it could be for one of the following reasons:
Watering Woes
- Overwatering: Geranium pelargoniums can’t tolerate soggy soil around their roots. Excess water will prevent the roots from uptaking oxygen and nutrients, and the roots will also rot unless action is taken. Signs to look out for include yellowing leaves, mushy stems, and poor growth. If rot has set in, the roots will be black and mushy, and the plant will omit a foul smell. To remedy overwatering, ease up on watering and allow the soil to dry between waterings. Also, ensure the pot has excellent drainage.
- Underwatering: Your geranium will likely need water if its leaves have turned crispy and the stems feel brittle. If the soil is dry to the touch to a depth of two inches, then water it deeply but less frequently. If the potting soil dries out in less than a week, this indicates that you need to repot to allow the roots more room for growth.
Light Levels
- Not Enough Sun: Geranium pelargoniums thrive in at least six hours of full sun daily. In low light levels, they become leggy, produce fewer blooms, and can be more prone to disease, eventually leading to geranium dying. They will get sun most of the day in the ideal indoor and outdoor location.
- Too Much Direct Sun: Although sun lovers, intense afternoon heat can scorch their leaves, especially in hot climates. Ensure they have some midday shade in extreme heat, especially if growing by a window or under glass. Take care not to get water on their leaves when watering, as the sun will magnify through water and also cause the leaves to scorch.
Temperature Troubles
- Frost: Geranium pelargoniums are frost-sensitive. Sudden cold snaps can cause leaves to turn black and the plant to collapse and die off. If temperatures dip, move indoors where they can successfully overwinter in a well-lit or sunny spot. If left outside, even with protection, you will be lucky if they survive frost or a cold winter.
- Extreme Heat: Prolonged heat waves can stress geranium pelargoniums, leading to wilting and leaf drop. Provide some shade during peak heat and ensure you monitor their water requirements. If growing in pots, gently remove the plant and check the roots. Are your geranium pelargoniums dying or dry? Replace them in the pot and soak them in water for a couple of hours to allow water uptake to the stems and flowers. Water thoroughly if growing in the ground, but ensure the water drains away. Add a light mulch during a prolonged period of extreme heat and consider providing some midday shelter from the scorching effects of the sun.
Pest & Disease Problems – How to Recognise and Treat
- Aphids: These soft-bodied, sap-sucking pests often infest geraniums hiding on the underside of the leaves. Look for sticky residue, stunted growth, yellow and curling leaves. They are best treated with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
- Root Rot: This often results from overwatering. Roots become mushy and black. Cut away all infected roots, then sterilize your cutting tools to prevent further infection. For container-grown geraniums, repot with fresh potting compost with added perlite to provide extra drainage and to help keep the roots aerated. This will help to prevent repeat outbreaks of root rot. For those plants grown in the ground, gently dig up and cut away infected roots. Remove and discard all the soil that surrounds the root ball and replace it with fresh compost. Replant and backfill with fresh compost. Correct watering is vital, too. However, there are ways to prevent root rot without repotting.
- Botrytis Blight: A fungal disease causing brown or grey fuzzy mold on the leaves, stems, and flowers. Flower buds may drop before opening. Remove all infected foliage and isolate the plant to improve air circulation. To help prevent further spread, this will have to be treated with a fungicide.
Nutrient Deficiency
If you are watering your plants correctly and there is no sign of pests, yellowing leaves can indicate a lack of nutrients. These could be primary nitrogen, potassium, and possibly lesser nutrients such as iron, zinc, sulfur, and manganese. However, pelargoniums do not grow as a one-season plant usually. It is more likely to affect those grown long-term, especially if grown as houseplants.
Feed with a balanced houseplant fertilizer twice a month during the peak growing season. Don’t fertilize during the dormant cold season months. Note that some leaves will turn yellow and drop from the lower stems of older pelargoniums. This is natural and nothing to be concerned about, providing the rest of the plant is healthy. However, further investigation will be needed if this happens to the top leaves.
Check the ways how to revive Geraniums.
What Is The Difference Between Hardy Geraniums & Tender Pelargoniums
When we think of geraniums, we think of vibrant flowers and lush green foliage. What is confusing, though, is that geraniums, usually considered annual summer bedding in the northern hemisphere, have been officially reclassified and renamed pelargoniums. These flowering plants are native to South Africa and Australia and will only survive if grown in warm, sunny locations, whether outdoors or indoors.
True geraniums are herbaceous plants commonly known as cranesbills or hardy geraniums. Though they belong to the same family (Geraniaceae), they require different growing environments.
Gernanium Pelargoniums
A straightforward way of telling the two apart is that tender geranium pelargoniums usually have vibrant pink, red, coral, and white flowers. They have fragrant leaves and fleshy stems that go woody with age. It thrives in warm or hot sunny locations and is not frost-hardy. They are widely grown in pots, containers, hanging baskets, and flower borders. In cooler climates, they are either discarded at the end of the summer season or brought indoors. They make ideal houseplants, living for many years, and will continue flowering all year round given the right conditions of light and warmth.
Hardy Geraniums
Hardyardy geraniums (cranesbill) are perennials with smaller flowers and thinner stems that can tolerate frosty weather. They have more cottage garden appeal and are usually grown in the ground. They die back during winter, regrow during spring, and flower most of the summer.
Read on to discover the best ways to care for and how to revive the frost-sensitive geranium pelargoniums.
| Common name | Geranium pelargonium, tender geranium |
| Botanical name | Pelargonium |
| Origin | South Africa and Australia |
| Foliage | Evergreen |
| Eventual height | Up to 12-48 inches tall |
| USDA Zone | 9-12 |
| Soil type | Loamy, well-draining |
| Soil pH | Slightly acidic, 6 to 6.5 |
| Toxicity | Mildly toxic to pets |
The following are geranium pelargoniums that are more commonly available:
- Zonal Geranium: These bushy pelargoniums have intense, vibrant-colored flowers and leave with a round zone or pattern in the center. They are usually planted in containers, pots, and borders. They also make excellent indoor flowering plants. Since the variety doesn’t produce seeds, they must be propagated via cuttings.
- Regal Geraniums: These pelargoniums have larger, vivid flowers and scented leaves. They prefer slightly cooler temperatures but will tolerate the heat if watered regularly.
- Ivy or Trailing Geraniums: These pelargoniums have a trailing habit, making them suitable for cascading or climbing. They have colorful flowers in many hues, but their leaves tend to be greener and resemble ivy.
Scented Geraniums: What these pelargoniums slightly lack in flower appeal, they more than makeup for with their powerfully scented leaves. There is a choice of lemon, rose, apple, cinnamon, chocolate, orange, and the outstanding peppermint scent. Though they will happily grow outdoors, they make excellent indoor houseplants.
Let’s discover more about how to care for your geranium pelargoniums:
Why Are My Geranium Pelargonium Buds Dying Before Opening?
Tender pelargonium buds might die before they open for several reasons, including environmental issues, pests, and diseases.
Environmental Factors
Sudden temperature swings, both cold and hot, can shock pelargoniums and cause buds to wither before blossoming. Too much or too little watering can lead to bud drop. Aim for moist soil that allows excess to drain away.
Budding pelargoniums also need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight to promote healthy flowering, as buds may fail to develop in shady conditions.
Pests and Diseases
Tiny caterpillars of certain moths love to feast on geranium buds and are responsible for geranium dying. Look for small entry holes at the base of the bud and webbing at the bud stem. Insecticides containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective.
Botrytis Blight can attack buds, causing them to turn brown and rot before opening. Proper spacing for airflow and avoiding overhead watering can help prevent it.
Nutrient Imbalance
Too much nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Use a balanced nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous fertilizer or one specially formulated for flowering plants.
Natural Aging
Sometimes, buds die off naturally, especially on older flower clusters at the end of their flowering season. Keep deadheading to conserve the plant’s energy and encourage more robust growth.
Why Are My Geranium Pelargonium Cuttings Dying?
Cuttings are a cost-effective way to multiply your favorite pelargonium varieties. Another advantage is that the cutting will be identical to the parent plant. However, it is worth taking note of the following to avoid any potential problems in the first place and how to deal with them if they do arise.
Rotting
Rotting is the number one enemy of geranium pelargonium cuttings. Soggy soil deprives the cutting of oxygen and encourages fungal growth. Ensure your potting medium has excellent drainage and water only when the top half inch of soil feels dry.
Remove all the lower leaves before planting the cutting, as any lower leaf in contact with the soil has a high chance of rotting.
Insufficient Moisture
While overwatering is a greater threat, underwatering can be disastrous for vulnerable cuttings. Water them regularly, keeping the soil lightly moist but not soggy.
Creating a humid environment (using a plastic bag or propagator) can help with rooting, but too much humidity without proper ventilation will also lead to rot. It’s all about carefully monitoring your cuttings and addressing problems in the first instance.
Improper Planting Medium
Geranium pelargonium cuttings need a light, well-draining mix like a succulent/cactus blend or potting soil mixed with perlite. Regular garden soil is too heavy and retains too much water.
Temperature and Light
Geranium pelargonium cuttings prefer moderate temperatures. Prolonged exposure to cold or intense heat stresses them and hinders rooting.
Place your cuttings in bright, indirect light, but avoid harsh, direct sun until they establish a small root ball.
Unhealthy Mother Plant
Healthy, non-flowering stems are the best choice for pelargonium cuttings. However, taking cuttings from a diseased or weak plant reduces the chances of success.
Wrong Time of Year
Geranium pelargonium cuttings root best when the plant grows actively in spring and early summer. Taking the cuttings at any other time can significantly impact the success rates.
Why Are My Geranium Pelargonium Leaves Dying?
Yellowing leaves, drooping stems, and mushy roots indicate root rot due to overwatering. Ensure plenty of drainage materials are at the bottom of the pot or container. Then, water only when the soil is dry to the touch, removing any standing water.
In contrast, crispy, brown leaves suggest thirst. Water deeply, then let the soil dry slightly between waterings.
Pale leaves and weak growth can indicate insufficient light. Geraniums thrive in full sun (6+ hours daily). However, brown, scorched leaves can mean sunburn, especially during extreme heat. In this case, providing some afternoon shade in hot climates will be essential.
Look for brown spots with gray mold (Botrytis blight) or rust-colored pustules on the undersides of leaves. Improve air circulation by isolating from neighbouring plants and removing all infected foliage.
Final Words
Geranium pelargoniums can add a stylish touch of the Mediterranean to your planting scheme. You will find there is a place in every garden, yard or indoors for geranium pelargoniums. With their wide choice of vibrant flowers, scented leaves, and easy-to-grow nature, you will be rewarded with an exceptionally long season of interest.
In general, geraniums pelargoniums are easy to grow and, in my experience, easy to become addicted to and collect! Here at Gardeners Yards, we hope you have found this article helpful and informative for growing and reviving your geranium pelargoniums.
Look out for more updates on growing geranium pelargoniums in hanging baskets.
